Construction

 The construction process of a fully canvassed jacket is incredibly complex. In a fully canvassed jacket, the canvas serves as the foundation of the jacket, providing structure, shape, and support. In a way, the canvas IS the jacket, as the silhouette and shape is fully dependent on the canvas.

We start first in the choosing of the canvas. Multiple types of canvas are used in a single jacket, ranging from a light linen body canvas, a horsehair chest canvas, shoulder canvas, so on and so forth. The mixtures of the different canvases should result in a jacket that provides support in the shoulder and chest, yet be fluid enough to conform to the wearer's body over time. 

The canvas is then shaped to fit the client's pattern. Multiple pie shaped wedges called darts are strategically taken out of the canvas, creating convexity in the chest and shoulder ball joint. The canvas is then steamed and dampened to make it pliable and then molded, using heat and pressure. This shaping process helps create the chest, lapel roll, and other contours of the jacket.

Pad stitching then takes place, securing the canvas to the fabric and creating structure. Hundreds of small, diagonal stitches are made by hand through the layer of canvasses, and any additional padding layers. These stitches create a quilt-like effect, distributing tension and allowing the jacket to mold to the wearer's body while maintaining its shape.

Once the canvas is shaped and pad stitched, the fabric is basted onto the canvas. Basting stitches are temporary long stitches that hold the canvas in place during the jacket's construction. These stitches allow for adjustments and ensure proper alignment before the final stitching. The lapels are then pad stitched, programming a generous roll to the lapel, preventing it from being dog-eared over time.

Once the canvas is securely attached and properly shaped, the rest of the jacket's construction proceeds. This includes sewing the remaining fabric pieces together, adding lining, and hand-stitching various details, completing the jacket's final assembly. The button holes, buttons and labels are then sewn on by hand as important mark of quality, ascertaining to the fact that it is a fully handmade product.

It then receives a final press, and a final check for quality assurance before being delivered, marking the proud birth of a garment that reflects centuries of bespoke menswear tradition, and a stunning statement to the world.