THE COMPENDIUM HOUSE CUT

The Compendium House Cut is the culmination of years of refinement, rooted in the lineage of Shanghai’s Red Gang tailors who brought their craft to Malaya. From them, we inherited the 16 measures; tenets of what constitutes an exceptional suit. A philosophy of balance—clean planes (平, píng) straight lines (直, zhí), a silhouette that falls naturally (服, fú), and lines that flow smoothly (顺, shùn). The jacket retains its form with elastic recovery (回, huí), yet moves with ease and comfort (松, sōng) and liveliness (活, huó)—light (轻, qīng), unburdened, yet with a full chest (挺, tǐng).

The shoulders are shaped to elevate the body’s form (登, dēng), the sleeves are full (满, mǎn) but thin in construction (薄, bó), and the canvas gently cups the wearer (窝, wō). Every proportion is harmoniously cut (句, jù)—soft (软, ruǎn), balanced, yet with presence (盛, shèng).

Bespoke

  1. Drafted entirely from scratch, unique to your body.
  2. Shoulders and silhouette shaped by hand to your posture and stance.
  3. Every proportion, detail, and balance is tailored to your individuality.
  4. Best for those who want the highest expression of craft and fit.

THE COMPENDIUM BESPOKE PROCESS

1. A Conversation

We begin with a conversation, exploring your ideas for the garment and the seasons or occasions you would like it to serve. From there, we’ll guide you through a curated selection of fabrics and arrive at a choice together.

2. Measurements

Next, we'll take your measurements; a crucial step for every client, whether local or abroad. Whenever possible, we encourage meeting in person so our tailor can capture the details with precision. As your measurements are taken, feel free to share your preferences for the suit and don't hold back on a little friendly chat along the way.

3. Drawing the pattern.

With the client's measurements in hand. Work will begin on the drawing board. Our tailor will transfer the measurements onto a paper pattern and from then onwards create a baste fitting on muslin cloth. This will not be your chosen fabric but more for the tailor to work on with.

4. The First Baste Fitting

This is your first fitting. The suit will be loosely stitched together, not quite finished, but enough to give you a feel for the shape and silhouette. Think of it as a preview, where we fine-tune the details and note down adjustments. It's also your chance to ask the tailor any thing about your fit or about life in general. (We don't mid if the session turns into a little therapy chat.) Once both you and the tailor are happy, your suit moves forward to the second round.

4. The First Baste Fitting
(International Clients)

Your first fitting will be mailed to you. The garment is prepared just like for our local clients, but we'll guide you through it over a video call.

What you'll need:

  1. A smartphone with a tripod
  2. A bright, well-lit room
  3. Awareness of how the garment feels on your body
  4. Someone to assist you

Steps:

  1. Set up your smartphone on the tripod, with your chest and torso clearly visible.
  2. At the scheduled time, join the video call (or expect our call, depending on agreement).
  3. Wear the fitting garment and follow our tailor's instructions.
  4. Answer questions about the fit, movement, and comfort.
  5. If someone is available to help, they can adjust the camera or assist with showing angles.

From this session, we'll gather everything needed to refine your suit before it moves on to the next stage.

5. The Second Baste Fitting

After the first baste fitting, we will move on. to the 2nd fitting based on the fabric you have chosen. At this stage we are at 80% completion. The construction of the garment now is much neater now and is filled up with horsehair canvas, sleeves and cuffs.
This is the 2nd fitting before your suit is completed.

5. The Second Baste Fitting
(International Clients)

This is the time we will be back for our trunk show at your respective country. The 2nd fitting will be done in person, or if you wish to have your suit delivered at this time, we can also do this fitting through video call.

6. Final Delivery

We'll invite you in for the final fitting, where any last minor adjustments can be made if needed. In most cases though, the suit is already just right, just ask Evan here.

For our international clients, we usually hand-deliver your suit at our next trunk show in your country. If that's not convenient, we can also ship it straight to your doorstep

*The overall duration of the bespoke experience goes from 6 - 9 months. Depending on where the customer is.

Book an appointment to consult with us today.